BY: MAITTE SOLIS
Dia de los muertos, directly translates to “the day of the dead” and is a major Mexican holiday overshadowed here in the U.S by Halloween. As seen on the cover of DIG Magazine's October cover, a beautiful sugar skull makeup is by far the most recognizable symbol of the spooky festivities. What better way to start off your November and honor all your loved ones who have passed then by learning how to recreate this iconic look and celebrate life after death. Professional Makeup Artist Victoria Fuentes showed me her version of a "calavera". What you will need:
Most items will already be in your everyday makeup.
-Cinema Secrets Paint (Can be found at any Halloween store)
-Eye shadow powders
-DUO eye glue
-Black pencil eyeliner
Step 1: Face
To begin the first step is to start with a clean face and to pin back any hair that falls over the face. Using a foundation brush apply the white paint in the Cinema Secrets Paint Set all over your face avoiding your eye area such as your eyebrows and eye sockets. To achieve a truly white and ghostly base you will need to apply a few layers of the white paint, and use a sponge to go over your face to get rid of any streaks the foundation brush could of left behind. To avoid smudging your face paint lightly pat on a translucent powder with a powder brush.
Step 2: Eyes
Moving on to your eyes, trace around your eyebrows and eye sockets with black liquid eyeliner using a thin brush for precision. To create depth, use two different colors to fill in the space you traced around your eye area. Using the black paint from the Cinema Secrets Paint Set and a brush fill in your eyes leaving your eyelids and lower lash line untouched. From the same paint set use the red paint and a different brush to color your eyelids and lower lash line. Once again the paint must be set to avoid any smudging as well for longer lasting wear, using MAC’s black eye shadow and a fluffy brush to blend any rough edges between the black and red paint. To set the red paint pat on the red glitter, a good tip is to start with small increments of glitter to avoid getting glitter all over your cheeks.
To create the flower petals around your eyes use the same brush used for outlining the eye sockets and the black liquid liner. The pedal size can vary to whatever size you prefer, as long as they completely encircle.
Step 3: Nose & Forehead
Skulls do not have a nose, so neither will this look. To get the illusion of a hollow nose hole we will use the black liquid eyeliner and a thin brush to create two triangles. Starting at the middle of the bridge of the nose trace a line going down to the point of the nose, bring the line out towards the nostril and back up at a angle to connect to the initial point at the bridge of the nose. Repeat the steps on the opposite side of the nose, which then should give you two elongated triangles. Fill in the triangles with the black liquid eyeliner and a brush.
Eek! Spider webs! Start with your black liquid liner and a thin brush to draw a straight line from your hairline to the middle of your forehead. From the initial line start to branch out other lines, 2 on both sides, at a slight angle. To connect the vertical lines make horizontal lines starting from the most acute angles and leaving a half inch space between each new line.
In between your eyebrows draw a teardrop shaped design or any other design you like with the black eye liner pencil.
Step 4: Mouth & cheeks
Your black eyeliner pencil will be your best friend for the next few steps. Using the eyeliner start at the corner of the lips drawing a line going out following the natural line of your cheekbones into your hairline. To create the skull teeth, draw slightly spaced lines going down your lips out towards your cheeks.
To hallow the cheeks, go back to the line created on the cheeks and into the hairline and start at the halfway point and thicken the line to about 1 inch thick. Using the MAC black eye shadow and a fluffy brush blend the thickened line down to form a gradient effect.
Step 5: Details
Here comes the creative part! The swirls, flowers, and rhinestones in the next steps are optional and are open to whatever you want to do to make the makeup all your own.
Using your eyeliner pencil create swirls along your jawline and around the spider web. On your chin it is common to make a flower of some sort, as well using your eyeliner pencil make a half flower. With the DUO eye glue add the rhinestones around your eye pedals and other parts of your design. To make your eyes pop use a pair of extravagant eyelashes. To finish off the look pin some colorful flowers to the top of your hair or go big with a complete Mexican inspired outfit.